Osijek is eastern Croatia's largest city, set on the Drava just about 20 kilometres before it flows into the Danube. Its heart is Tvrđa, an 18th-century Habsburg fortress town with Baroque squares, churches and plenty of cafés. With its Drava promenade, lots of greenery and hearty cuisine, Osijek is the gateway to Slavonia and Baranja.
At a glance
Region
Slavonia
From Zagreb
approx. 280 km via the A3/A5
Airport
Osijek (Klisa)
To Kopački rit
approx. 12 km
Best time to visit
April to June, September, October
Ideal for
culture lovers, food lovers, nature lovers
Sights
Tvrđa Baroque fortress town with the Holy Trinity column, museums and bars
Co-cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul neo-Gothic brick church with a very tall tower
Drava promenade riverside path with a footbridge and the Copacabana city beach on the far bank
Europska avenija grand avenue with Art Nouveau façades
Zoo and parks along the Drava
Food and wine
Slavonia eats heartily: kulen (spicy paprika sausage), čobanac (shepherd's stew) and fiš paprikaš (paprika fish soup). The wine cellars of nearby Baranja around Zmajevac and Suza are known for Graševina – many are set in old cellar lanes dug into the hillside.
Honest verdict
Osijek isn't a classic holiday destination but a relaxed university city with low prices and few tourists. Summers are very hot, with mosquitoes. Combined with Kopački rit, Baranja and Vukovar, though, it makes a fascinating tour away from the coast.