Šibenik – Dalmatia's most Croatian city

Šibenik was not founded by Romans or Greeks but by Croats in the Middle Ages – and the city is proud of it. Today it has two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: St James's Cathedral, built entirely of stone without wood or brick, and St Nicholas Fortress at the mouth of the channel. Steep lanes, four fortresses, nearby islands and Krka National Park on the doorstep make Šibenik one of the most rewarding cities on the coast.

At a glance

Region: North Dalmatia
Airports: Split (approx. 55 km), Zadar (approx. 70 km)
To Krka NP: approx. 15 km
UNESCO: St James's Cathedral (2000), St Nicholas Fortress (2017)
Best time to visit: May, June, September
Ideal for: culture travellers, couples, day-trippers, island hoppers

St James's Cathedral and old town

The Cathedral of St James was built between 1431 and 1535, largely under master builder Juraj Dalmatinac. It is made entirely of stone, even the vault, and combines Gothic and Renaissance. On the outside 71 stone heads bear the faces of citizens of the time. Narrow, steep lanes and stairways wind around the cathedral; the square in front with its loggia is the heart of the city.

Four fortresses

St Michael's Fortress (Sv. Mihovil) above the old town, with a summer stage for concerts and views over the channel and islands
Barone and St John higher up; Barone has an exhibition on the city's defence
St Nicholas Fortress Venetian sea fortress at the entrance to St Anthony's Channel, UNESCO-listed; reachable by boat or a shoreline path

Swimming and islands

Banj is the town beach below the old town with views of the cathedral. In season a boat runs to the Jadrija peninsula with pebble coves and pines. Ferries leave the harbour for the car-free islands of Zlarin (coral tradition) and Prvić; the sponge-divers' islet of Krapanj lies further south near Brodarica.

Honest verdict

Šibenik is less crowded than Split and Dubrovnik and has a real, lived-in old town. There are no big town beaches – for swimming head to Jadrija, Brodarica or the islands. The many stairs are a challenge for people with limited mobility. As a base for Krka and the Kornati, Šibenik is ideal.