Pag is one of the most unusual islands in the Adriatic: the bora wind has swept its eastern side almost bare, creating a pale stone desert often compared to a lunar landscape. In between, sheep graze on salty herb meadows – the basis of the famous Paški sir cheese. Pag town is known for its delicate lace, Novalja in the north for the Zrće party beach. An island with two very different faces.
At a glance
Region
North Dalmatia / Kvarner
Access south
Pag Bridge from the mainland (no ferry needed)
Access north
ferry Prizna – Žigljen
Airport
Zadar (approx. 50 km to Pag town)
Best time to visit
June, September; July/August for Zrće parties
Ideal for
foodies, cyclists, party-goers, peace-seekers in the south
Pag town and its lace
Pag town was laid out to a plan in the 15th century: a grid of lanes around the main square with the Church of St Mary and the Rector's Palace. Pag lace (Paška čipka), made with needle and thread without a pattern, is on UNESCO's intangible heritage list; in a small museum and at stalls you can watch women at work. Large salt pans surround the town.
Cheese, lamb and salt
Paški sir is a hard sheep's cheese whose flavour comes from the salty, herb-rich pastures; several dairies offer tastings. Add Pag lamb and sea salt from the salt pans. Food travellers should plan a visit to a dairy near Kolan or Gligora.
Novalja and Zrće
In the north lies Novalja with its promenade and beaches. Zrće pebble beach, with its large open-air clubs, has been one of Europe's best-known party destinations for years – in July and August the parties go on till morning. If you want peace, stay in the south of the island or in Lun with its grove of ancient wild olive trees.
Honest verdict
Pag divides opinion: the barren landscape is fascinating but shadeless and windy when the bora blows. In summer Novalja/Zrće is loud and young, while Pag town and the small southern villages are relaxed. If you want greenery and pine woods, Pag is not for you; if you love space, light and good food, it is.
