Novigrad (Cittanova in Italian) is the cosiest of the west Istrian coastal towns: a fishing harbour in the middle of town, well-preserved walls, a slender bell tower and a food scene known far beyond Istria for fish and seafood. Just to the south the river Mirna reaches the sea; its valley is one of Europe's most important truffle areas.
At a glance
Region
Istria, west coast
Airport
Pula (approx. 75 km), Trieste (approx. 90 km)
To Umag / Poreč
approx. 15 km / approx. 20 km
Best time to visit
May, June, September, October (truffle season)
Ideal for
foodies, couples, cyclists, families
Typical
fish, shellfish, truffles, Malvazija
Old town and harbour
The heart of the town is the Mandrač, a small sheltered fishing harbour where the boats come in during the evening. From there you enter the old town on its peninsula with remains of the medieval walls, the main square with its loggia and the Church of St Pelagius, whose bell tower is a miniature of Rovinj's. The modern Lapidarium displays early medieval stonework with interlace ornaments – a surprisingly worthwhile small museum.
Food: fish, shellfish, truffles
For its size Novigrad has an unusual number of good restaurants; in spring the town traditionally celebrates asparagus and fish, in autumn white truffles from the Mirna valley arrive. Inland lies the Motovun forest, where truffles are hunted with dogs; some family businesses offer truffle hunts for guests.
Swimming and activities
The beaches are rocky or concreted, with a promenade from the centre towards Karpinjan in the north and the hotel zones in the south. The Mirna estuary is a resting area for migratory birds. By bike you can reach the Dajla monastery complex (a neoclassical building right on the sea) and the wine country around Brtonigla.
Honest verdict
Novigrad is small, relaxed and strong on food – if you want parties or big sandy beaches, it's the wrong place. In high summer it stays more pleasant than Rovinj or Poreč. A tip for autumn travellers: in October and November temperatures are mild, truffle season is on and restaurants have time for their guests.
