Vrsar (Orsera in Italian) is a small hilltop town between Poreč and Rovinj: St Martin's Church and its bell tower on top, a marina and an archipelago of around 18 islets below. Directly to the south opens Lim Bay, Istria's most famous inlet. Vrsar is quieter than its neighbours and a good base for exploring both towns.
At a glance
Region
Istria, west coast
Airport
Pula (approx. 50 km)
To Poreč / Rovinj
approx. 10 km / approx. 35 km (around the bay)
Best time to visit
June, September
Ideal for
couples, those seeking quiet, sailors, naturists
Special feature
birthplace of organised naturist tourism in Croatia
The town
The old town is small and explored in an hour: steep lanes, remains of medieval walls, St Martin's Church with a viewing platform in the bell tower and the Romanesque basilica of St Mary by the harbour. Casanova is said to have visited Vrsar twice – the town commemorates it with a spring festival. On the edge of town lies the sculpture park of sculptor Dušan Džamonja, an unusual outing among olive trees.
Lim Bay
The Limski kanal is a narrow valley about 10 km long that the sea has flooded – technically a ria, not a fjord. The slopes are densely wooded, the water calm and nutrient-rich: oysters and mussels have been farmed here for a long time, and restaurants at the end of the inlet serve them fresh.
In season, excursion boats leave Vrsar daily for the bay. If you drive, there are several viewpoints above the Vrsar–Rovinj road.
Swimming
You swim from rocks and concrete platforms; Vrsar is home to Koversada, one of Europe's oldest naturist resorts, operating since the 1960s. Families prefer the coves towards Funtana and the beaches in front of the campsites. By boat you reach the offshore islets with quieter swimming spots.
Honest verdict
Vrsar offers no big buzz, little nightlife and hardly any sand – instead a relaxed atmosphere, lovely evening views over the archipelago and short distances to Poreč. A very good choice for couples, naturists and those seeking peace; families with teenagers may find it too quiet.
